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Tashkent · Food

Where & What to Eat in Tashkent: plov obsession, Chorsu alleys and tandoor somsa

In Tashkent, dining is not merely a daily routine — it is a vibrant cultural religion where plov feasts follow a strict clock and the aroma of roasted meat fills the air.

Guide · Food · 7 min

If you came to Tashkent planning to stay on a strict diet — give up now. This city greets you with the sizzle of mutton fat, the smoke of applewood charcoals, flaky tandoor pastry, and clinking bowls of green tea. Local etiquette is clear: plov is strictly an afternoon feast, flatbread is always broken with hands, and achik-chuchuk tomato salad accompanies every meat platter. Here is your definitive food guide.

01The Plov Obsession: Besh Qozon by the TV Tower

Plov sits atop Uzbekistan's culinary hierarchy. The ultimate epicenter is Besh Qozon ('Five Cauldrons') near the Tashkent TV Tower, cooking metric tons of rice daily in open-flame cast-iron cauldrons.

  • Primary varieties: 'Wedding Plov' (Toy Oshi) — sweet and fragrant with raisins, chickpeas, and barberries; 'Teahouse Plov' — rich, dark, and infused with whole garlic and chili.
  • Must-have toppings: slices of kazy (cured horsemeat sausage), boiled quail eggs, and melting pieces of mutton fat.
  • The golden timing rule: arrive strictly between 11:30 AM and 1:30 PM. By 3:00 PM the giant cauldrons are scraped clean.
  • Price: 35,000 – 55,000 UZS ($2.80 – $4.30) depending on chosen toppings.

02Chorsu Smoke Alley (Ovqat Bozori): Street Food Epicentre

Directly behind the turquoise dome of Chorsu Bazaar stretches the legendary open-air food arcade, enveloped in fragrant clouds of grilling smoke.

  • Naryn: silky hand-shredded cold noodles tossed with cured horsemeat and spices, served with a hot broth bowl (kazy-shurpa).
  • Khasyp: spiced lamb and rice sausage boiled in rich savoury cauldrons.
  • Kebabs (Shashlik): ground lula, tender lamb chunks, beef tenderloin, and jigar (liver wrapped in caul fat) — from 15,000 UZS per skewer.
  • Vibe: communal wooden tapchans where students, professionals, and village elders dine side by side.

03Tandoor Somsa: Flaky Pastry and Boiling Juices

Authentic Tashkent somsa is baked directly onto the blazing clay walls of a tandoor oven. The layered pastry soaks up meat juices, forming a crispy golden base.

  • Fillings: hand-chopped beef with onions and cumin, spiced lamb, sweet pumpkin, and seasonal wild greens (kuk-somsa).
  • Iconic spots: somsa bakeries in Chilanzar district (Kamolon, Oloy) and traditional bakeries near Kukeldash.
  • Pro-tip: slice open the crust or pop the top cap, drizzle spicy lozi tomato sauce inside, and enjoy cautiously to avoid scalding broth.
  • Price: 8,000 – 16,000 UZS ($0.60 – $1.20) each.

04Uzbek Bread: Sacred Obi-Non and Rich Patyr

Bread is revered across Uzbekistan. Tashkent bakers craft dozens of varieties stamped in the centre with delicate floral iron chekich spikes.

  • Obi-non: daily fluffy flatbread with a crispy crust for 4,000 – 6,000 UZS.
  • Patyr: festive enriched flatbread baked with butter, cream, and sesame — dense, rich, and stays fresh for weeks.
  • Etiquette: never place flatbread upside down and never cut it with a metal knife — always break it gently with both hands.

05Soups & Hearty Classics: Lagman, Shurpa & Mastava

Uzbek cuisine features rich, comforting soups that easily serve as complete two-course meals.

  • Lagman: hand-pulled noodles topped with spicy beef stew and vegetables (soup-style or wok-fried Guyru Lagman).
  • Mastava: rich rice soup with diced lamb, root vegetables, dollops of tangy qatiq yogurt, and fresh coriander.
  • Qovurma Chuchvara: miniature lamb dumplings deep-fried to a golden crunch.

06Traditional Teahouses & Celebrated Restaurants

For dining in ornate traditional interiors complete with carved wooden ayvans, live dutar music, and attentive service:

  • Caravan: an iconic restaurant-museum decorated with authentic regional antiques, tribal rugs, and refined classics.
  • Sim-Sim & Navvat: vibrant family dining halls offering vast selections of kebabs, plov, and oriental sweets.
  • Rayhon National Meals: a beloved citywide eatery chain famous for fast service and unbeatable value.

07Specialty Coffee Scene & Artisanal Bakeries

Alongside historic tea culture, Tashkent's third-wave coffee scene is thriving with locally roasted specialty beans and modern patisseries.

  • B&B Coffee House: specialty pioneers offering excellent flat whites, poached eggs, and syrniki.
  • Ecorn: elegant pastry boutique chain serving pistachio rolls, croissants, and crisp espresso.
  • Pie Republic: craft pies, gourmet eclairs, and third-wave brews near Amir Timur Square.

Average Meal Costs in Tashkent (2025–2026)

  • Wedding plov portion with kazy & egg at Besh Qozon: ~45,000 UZS (~$3.50)
  • Tandoor somsa with chopped beef: ~12,000 UZS (~$0.95)
  • Skewer of grilled lamb / ground kebab: ~18,000 – 25,000 UZS (~$1.40 – $2.00)
  • Bowl of Lagman or Mastava in a teahouse: ~30,000 – 40,000 UZS (~$2.40 – $3.10)
  • Hot Patyr flatbread from a streetside tandoor: ~6,000 UZS (~$0.45)
  • Pot of No. 95 green tea with lemon and rock sugar: ~10,000 UZS (~$0.80)
  • Cappuccino in a specialty coffee shop: ~28,000 – 35,000 UZS (~$2.20 – $2.70)
  • Feast for two at Caravan restaurant: ~250,000 – 350,000 UZS (~$20 – $28)

What matters

  1. Always order 'Achik-chuchuk' (fresh tomato & onion salad) with your plov — the natural acidity balances rich mutton fats.
  2. Drink hot green tea (Kok-choy No. 95) with meals rather than cold sodas to assist smooth digestion after hearty lamb dishes.
  3. At Chorsu dried fruit stalls, sample freely before purchasing, and verify weights on official electronic scales.
  4. Most sit-down restaurants include a 10% to 15–20% service charge on the bill — additional tipping is optional.
  5. To catch the freshest naryn and khasyp at Chorsu, arrive around 11:00 AM when vendors place steaming fresh trays out.
  6. Buy boxed dried melon rolls with walnuts as an edible gift — it is Tashkent's most delicious souvenir.
You cannot truly understand Tashkent through monuments alone until you have broken warm bread and tasted midday plov.

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